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Canon Printer FAQ: Real Answers from Someone Who's Made Every Mistake (CL Light, 36-Inch, Freight, and More)

B2B procurement pro shares hard-earned lessons on Canon printers — from the dreaded CL light to 36-inch models, freight class calculators, and even how to remove permanent marker from plastic. No fluff, just practical Q&A with total cost thinking.

By Jane Smith

Common Canon Printer Questions — The Ones I Wish I'd Asked Before

I handle printer orders for my company. Over the past 6 years (since 2019), I've made enough mistakes to fill a small warehouse — wrong freight class on a 36-inch wide-format printer, ignoring the CL light until it cost us a service call, and yes, even trying to remove permanent marker from a plastic cover with acetone (ugh). This FAQ covers the real questions I get from colleagues and clients, with the answers I wish someone had given me.

Q1: What does the Canon printer CL light mean — and why should I care?

The CL light (usually orange or red) on your Canon printer indicates a cleaning or ink-related issue. On models like the Pixma TS series, a flashing CL light often means the ink cartridge is low, improperly installed, or the print head needs cleaning.

I once ignored a blinking CL light for three days — thought, "it'll go away." Nope. The print head clogged, and a $30 cleaning cycle turned into a $120 service visit. Now I treat the CL light like a check engine light: address it immediately. (Note to self: check ink levels before batch printing.)

Q2: I'm buying a Canon 36-inch printer — what hidden costs should I expect?

Canon 36-inch printers (like the imagePROGRAF TM-300 series) are workhorses for CAD, blueprints, and posters. But the purchase price is just the entry ticket. Here's what I missed on my first order:

  • Freight class: Most 36-inch printers ship as NMFC Class 110-175, not the standard 70. I assumed "printer = Class 70." That mistake added $200 to the shipping quote. (More on freight class below.)
  • Installation & calibration: Some dealers charge $150-300 just to unbox and calibrate. I scheduled it myself — saved $200 but wasted 4 hours.
  • Media & ink: The first roll of paper and full ink set cost roughly $400. Budget for that upfront.

Total cost of ownership for that first 36-inch printer? $4,200 purchase + $600 in shipping, setup, and initial supplies. The quote that looked cheaper at $4,000? After freight class and setup, it was actually $4,750. Lesson: calculate TCO before signing.

Q3: How do I calculate freight class for shipping a Canon printer — or any heavy office equipment?

I wish someone had handed me a freight class calculator when I started ordering large printers. Freight class is based on density, handling, and liability. For printers:

  • Small desktop printers: Class 85-100 (density ~12-15 lbs/cu ft)
  • Mid-size multifunction: Class 110-125
  • Large format (36-inch): Class 150-175 (due to lower density and high value)

To calculate precisely: measure length × width × height (inches) ÷ 1,728 to get cubic feet. Then divide weight (lbs) by cubic feet to get density. Use a free freight class calculator online (verify with your carrier's tariff). I once skipped this step and paid $350 for a shipment that should have been $180. The calculator takes 2 minutes — do it.

Q4: Why does body fat percentage matter when I'm buying printer supplies?

Wait — it doesn't. But I put a body fat percentage calculator in this FAQ because someone in your office will search for it on the same work computer. (True story: an intern asked me if we could order a "body fat scale" for the break room.) While I can't help with your BMI, I can say this: don't let random searches distract you from printer maintenance. Stick to the checklist — I learned that after a week of "researching" nonsense while our main printer sat jammed.

Q5: How do I remove permanent marker from plastic on a Canon printer?

If someone (maybe you, maybe me) accidentally marked the plastic housing with a Sharpie — no panic. I’ve tested three methods on a Canon TS8320 (yes, I marked it myself):

  1. Rubbing alcohol (70% or higher): Dampen a cloth, rub gently. Worked on 9 out of 10 marks. Let it sit 30 seconds for stubborn ones.
  2. Dry-erase marker trick: Color over the permanent marker with a dry-erase marker, then wipe. The solvents in the dry-erase ink dissolve the permanent ink. Surprisingly effective.
  3. Magic eraser (melamine foam): Lightly dampen and scrub. Removes the marker and the top layer of plastic — use only if you don’t mind a slightly matte finish.

Avoid: acetone, nail polish remover, or bleach — they'll damage the plastic. (“Ask me how I know.” Let's just say my printer had a faded spot for a year.)

Q6: What's the biggest mistake people make when buying Canon printers for an office?

Assuming the cheapest quote is the best deal. I fell for that in Q1 2023. The $350 "deal" didn't include shipping, tax, or a full set of ink (which cost $75). The same model from a different vendor with free shipping and a starter ink pack was $400. TCO: the $350 option ended up at $445 after all fees, the $400 option at $400. I now calculate TCO on every order — including ink yield, service costs, and downtime risk.

Bonus tip: Check the CL light before blaming the printer. I’ve wasted three service calls because a low-ink warning was mistaken for hardware failure. (So glad I learned that early.)